Dissolve the fresh yeast in the milk. If using dried yeast, sprinkle it into the milk and leave in a warm place for 15 minutes, until frothy. Put the flour and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre, then pour in the yeast liquid. Beat well together until the dough leaves the sides of the bowl clean.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Place in a clean bowl. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour, until doubled in size.

Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead lightly. Divide the dough into 6, then cut off one-third of each piece. Shape the small pieces into rounds. Shape the remaining pieces into rounds. Place the larger rounds on to a greased baking sheet and brush with a little water. Place the smaller rounds on top.

Push the lightly floured handle of a wooden spoon down through the centre of the rolls right to the bottom. Using a sharp knife slash the dough at 5 cm (2 inch) intervals around the top and bottom edges to make a decorative pattern. Cover and leave in a warm place for about 30 minutes, until doubled in size.

Brush with a little beaten egg to glaze and sprinkle with poppy seeds, if liked. Bake at 230 °C / 450 °F / Gas 8 for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 200 °C / 400 °F / Gas 6 and bake for a further 10 minutes, until the rolls sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Plaits

Complete steps 1,2 and 3. Divide the dough into 6, then divide each piece into 3. Shape into 3 long rolls about 30 cm (12 inches) long. Pinch the ends together and plait loosely, then pinch the other ends together. Complete steps 5 and 6 baking the rolls at 230 °C / 450 °F / Gas 8 for 10 minutes, then at 200 °C / 400 °F / Gas 6 for about 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Knots

Complete steps 1,2 and 3. Divide the dough into 6. Shape each piece into a long roll and tie into a knot. Complete steps 5 and 6 baking the rolls at 230 °C / 450 °F / Gas 8 for 10 minutes, then at 200 °C / 400 °F / Gas 6 for about 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Trefoils

Complete steps 1,2 and 3. Divide the dough into 6, then divide each piece into 3. Roll each piece into a ball and place the 3 balls grouped together. Complete steps 5 and 6 baking the rolls at 230 °C / 450 °F / Gas 8 for 10 minutes, then at 200 °C / 400 °F / Gas 6 for about 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.